Smart Track Rudder Systems
Smart Track Rudder systems are known for their rudder that stands vertically when not deployed. This is common option on many newer types of sea kayaks both manufactured overseas (Tiderace, Rockpool, Epic) and in Australia (Audax, Nadgee post-2019).
The blade contains a spring which puts the blade in the water. To retract you need to pull up against the spring and cleat it to keep it up. If you do not want a rudder blade that stands vertically when not deployed we recommend the Smart Track Hybrid Foil system (cleats to stay down) or Kajak Sport Navigator. (slides up onto back deck - quieter). They can also be retrofitted to kayaks with the same style of pin or, if there is a vertical stern area, a rear mounting bracket.
Smart Track rudder housings come with the required fixings, pin or bracket, pull cords and instructions in a kit. There is a choice of Standard Foil Blade size (short, single or tandem) which is ordered separate to the housing. Most of the housings (except Flow) are metal and the Standard Foil Blades are plastic - foil shape like an airplane wing, to reduce turbulence & friction.
Attaching to the kayak / ski - pins and mountings
Included in the Rudder housing kit is the CRW set (stannds for Cool Rudder Wedgie) - all the fixings needed to attach the rudder cables to the housing, including a haul line and the instructions.
To attach the housing to the kayak / ski, the shape of your kayak’s or ocean ski’s stern determines which attachment style you will use. The rear mount housing is used where the stern is straight and vertical. For more traditional pointy-stern kayak there are a variety of top-mounted pin housings available.
CRW set for attaching the cables to the housing (included in Rudder Housing Kits)
Rear Mount Rudder Housing: Vertical sterns (that have some width) commonly use a rear mount that bolts onto the stern vertically. This is also referred to as a transom mount. The mounting is part of the kit (comes assembled) with a hinge pin (3mm) through a small hole in the housing. This is different from using thicker pin through a third party mounting, though this option is possible, this mounting, known as a gudgeon, is a less elegant solution.
Typically these are seen on fast touring style kayaks with vertical bows, such as Tiderace kayaks (use the Compact Rear Mount)
Original Rear Mount Rudder Housing eg. Rockpool Taran
Compact Rear Mount Rudder Housing eg. Tiderace
Original Rear Mount Rudder Housing
Bayonet Pin Rudder Housing: This is a popular option for traditionally shaped kayaks with at least 4.2cm thickness (height) at the stern. The bayonet pin is shaped with a partly flattened end that locks into a sleeve (tube) with a quarter turn. This stops it falling out if the kayak is upside down. The tiller (where the cables attach) can be standard or extended length to move the housing away from the stern allowing a wider range of movement.
Compact Bayonet Pin Rudder Housing (Std or Extended tiller)
Race Bayonet Pin Rudder Housing (Extended tiller) - high performance kayaks & ocean skis
Ski Bayonet Pin Rudder Housing (Extended tiller) eg. Epic V7 & V5 RM Surf Skis
Short Pin Rudder Housing: The shortest top-mounted system, but without the locking system of a bayonet pin.
Race Bayonet Pin Rudder Housing
Mid Pin & Long Pin Rudder Housing: the pin goes through the stern of the kayak, emerging underneath, with a split ring through one of the holes at the end of the pin to secure it in place. Typically used with the larger Original style rudder housing, though also with the Flow, a plastic housing (lighter weight) that would typically be used with a rotomolded kayak.
Original Mid Pin Rudder Housing
Original Long Pin Rudder Housing
Flow Mid Pin Rudder Housing
Rudder housing pins (note Threaded is not stocked)
Standard or Extended Tiller
The tiller plate on a top-mounted rudder housing is the part that connects the rudder cables and the pin to the housing. The distance from the stern of the kayak/ski to hole that the pin fits into determines whether you need a standard or extended tiller mount (if you kayak already has the hole and/or a bayonet sleeve inserted). The distance as per the illustration is from the centre of the pin to the edge of the housing - you should set up your pin hole with sufficient distance to allow full movement of the rudder.
Standard: 31.73mm
Extended: 40.25mm
Race Rudder housing extended tiller
Most of the Bayonet Pin rudder housings are set up with extended tiller (for Compact there is a choice) - the word ‘Extended’ is printed on the tiller. Short, Mid & Long pin housing are standard tiller.
Bayonet pin sleeves
The bayonet pin is a little wider than the other, smooth sided pins - it has a wider diameter (by ~0.5mm) and a flat notch in the base. The reason is that they will lock into a metal sleeve with a quarter turn, so that when the kayak is upside down the rudder will not drop out.
The internal diameter of these bayonet pin sleeves is standard for 9.5-10mm diameter pins, so you can use Smart Track , Kajak Sport or other brands. There are sleeves with a flange or bar, so that they can be fixed into the deck of plastic rotomolded kayaks (that not much sticks to!). In composite kayaks the bayonet sleeve can be resined in (may require an end pour).
The trick with the bayonet sleeve is to get the correct orientation - the bayonet pin locks in with a quarter turn so make sure it is aligned correctly before fixing it in place.
Bayonet pin sleeve with flange
How strong is it?
More like, how strong does it need to be? The metal housing itself is strong - there is always the possibility of a big collision breaking off one of the tiller arms (where the cable attaches). The pins themselves go through the tiller - if this is your breaking point you may have other things to worry about!
The parts that are most likely to break are:
The Whiz Rod - the small part that guides the haul line and sticks up above the top of the housing. Dropping your kayak may result in this breaking. You may also need a Dowel pin if you have lost the top part of the whiz rod.
The rudder blade - side impact when down due to being down in a surf zone or shallow water (not recommended for any rudder) or if hauled up, damaged in shallow water / surf when the kayak is upside down. Or again, dropping off the car…
Use in extreme wave conditions could break something - if it is only a rudder that’s better (& cheaper) than having to replace the whole system, or your kayak (if something has to give).Rudder cables - whether spectra or stainless steel, they do wear out and should be checked before use, particularly for expeditions.
Coil Spring - part of the system connecting the blade to the housing. Take care that you do not over-tension them.
Always carry some spares in your kit (and to take on Expeditions) - see our list of Smart Track Spare Parts.
Whiz rod - don’t drop your kayak off the car!
Coil spring - fits into rudder blade. Do not overtension
Foil Blade - snapped below the housing (haul line has pulled it up) - source J Evertze
Nothing is unbreakable - given enough encouragement something will break and you want it to be the part that is less expensive and easy to fix (not the kayak!)
“Good rudder system, but given enough water pressure they do break. If I was on an expedition I would definitely carry a spare. This one was broken on a 4-5ft wave, didn't hit the bottom, just water pressure. I still reckon they're an excellent rudder, as I thought I would have broken it before now. At Ieast now I know when there is a good chance of breaking one.”
- J Evertze
What is a Trim Tab and why might I want one?
The Smart Track Trim Tab is a deck mounted accessory that allows you to set and hold the rudder in position when there is a solid quartering sea - to set the Trim of the rudder. You are locking in your course so that you don’t have to maintain a continuous and often uncomfortable rudder deflection with your feet.
Smart Track Trim Tab
The Trim Tab is an add on for the Smart Track Toe Pilot foot control system (rudder control foot pedals). Above the deck is a knob where you set the trim, that you would attach to the deck forward of the cockpit coaming and within easy reach, while below the deck it connects to the foot controls.